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Out of the Ordinary vintage—OOTO London for short—provided many looks for the film, helping Yates realize Gaga’s numerous outfits with historical accuracy. Vintage dealer Calum Blyth gives Smith and Yates a tour of the archive, and Smith even gets a Gucci-worthy makeover from the Oscar-winning costume designer. Watch it all unfold in episode four of Good Morning Vogue. “We’re having a Hitchcock moment,” Erdem Moralioglu says during his surprise encounter with Polly the peregrine falcon. Vogue’s ploy to draw the erudite designer out of his bustling East London studio for a breath of fresh air during the final sprint to his spring 2022 show has paid off. He is well known for his encyclopedic knowledge of literary and historical references—today’s chat centers on the cinematic adaptation of British author Daphne du Maurier’s classic horror novel The Birds—making Erdem the brand synonymous with great female heroines of fiction and history; each season they are front and center in the designer’s ornate fashion storytelling.
In the name of the father, the son, and the house of Gucci, Good Morning Vogue is getting an exclusive look into the world of House of Gucci costume designer Janty Yates. Raven Smith met up with Yates in London to discuss costuming Lady Gaga, Adam Driver, Jared Leto, and more in the anticipated new film by Ridley Scott. Yates also gave Good Morning Vogue a preview of never-before-seen images and clips from the film. Inside London’s Gore Hotel, Yates describes the Gucci look of the film’s period, designed by the late Maurizio Gucci, as “round and brown.” “Tom Ford came and cut a swath through that!” she says. While Gaga does wear archival Gucci pieces in the film, Yates looked to vintage dealers and archive houses for many of the buzzed-about outfits and added heaps of accessories to Gaga’s looks. “She had 54 script days,” Yates says, “and she never repeated a look, not even an earring.”
“Doing the falconry made me think of Marianne North, who was an extraordinary Victorian botanist and amazing explorer at a time when women couldn’t travel alone,” Moralioglu tells Good Morning Vogue. “The strength and power of femininity is something that has absolutely inspired me again and again.” Elsewhere in his oeuvre, Italian activist and photographer Tina Modotti and American vaudeville child star Adele Astaire have come alive through designs that are worn by the likes of Beyoncé, Madonna, and Oprah Winfrey. The day’s ornithological escapade unfolds in the name of celebration. Erdem is set to soar during London Fashion Week with a show that marks the label’s return to a real-life runway (in the British Museum’s impressive colonnade, no less) and its 15th anniversary. Moralioglu’s success is a feat that, last year, saw him awarded the MBE for services to the fashion industry in the Queen’s Birthday Honours List. See Moralioglu’s impromptu avian 15th-anniversary celebration, above, together with a hint of what’s next for the fashion star.
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