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During a gimbal-free, handheld phone transmitted preview, Nichanian referred repeatedly to “télescopage”—which means collision, buffering and merging—as a central tenet of both a presentation and collection that was conceived as an adaptation to our currently diminished, but arguably intensified fields of vision and experience, “inside, outside and silicon.”A lovely detail both functional and decorative that exemplified this was the overlapping “twist” pockets on parkas, half-zips and jackets whose clashing contours were traced in saddlery stitching usually used on Hermès leather wares. Panning out, the divisions between private and professional were buffered and softened by the combination of irreverently cut, delicately volumized and slouchy-panted suiting to complement elevated workwear-derived pieces including vivid checked leather-tagged half-zips and twist pocket work shirts. Zestily colored sneakers—the tones specified were “cumin, glycin, H red, and frost blue”—played punchy foundation to lambskin track pants and cardigans. Joggers were sometimes traced with side-stripes to contrast with similarly piped blouson jackets and the stripes in blur-bordered mohair knitwear. The appropriately named print of the season was Drive Me Crazy, which unravelled on silks and cotton. Garment linings came in vivid contrasts of pattern and color, a further thoughtfully optimistic “télescopage.” Like all collections watched in person and packed with pieces you’d like to get to know better, this Hermès digital show left you both excited by what you’d spotted and frustrated not to have taken absolutely everything in.
Seen everything half-decent on Netflix, Disney+, Hulu and Amazon Prime combined? Then enjoy a few minutes of relief by taking in the excellent second Spencer Phipps digital presentation. Shot on the Skaftafellsjökull glacier in Iceland and starring the super-fit pogonophile designer, the video is basically a trailer for a movie he hasn’t made yet that co-stars the collection. Paging the Netflix commissioning team: that movie looks way better than the abysmal Outside The Wire. Lack of a good voiceover artist apart, the trailer/show is excellent, irreverent—and serious too.That was thanks to a seven-section split screen format that allowed you to choose which angle you wished to see in the foreground. Some of the angles were mobile, shot by hand but gimbal-smooth, while others came from cameras set into the square spiral staircase of the Mobilier National. This national storehouse of furniture had in recent seasons become Nichanian’s venue of choice, and the action unfolded down the stairs and into the courtyard in which we would otherwise have likely watched the show live.
“It means feminizing, twisting, exaggerating, shifting,” said Phipps of a collection that opened with “Save the Fucking Whales” recycled cashmere knits whose sales will benefit an NGO named Oceanic Global that is working to do just that. Italian milled wool with technical treatments was used in purposefully provocative bodysuits that mimicked the thermal underwear Shackleton and his ilk lived in but which could as well be used to explore a dancefloor. Technical wear was rendered in recycled sea plastic EcoNyl and colored in ombre waves. Stiff collared teddy coats, rugby shirts and Shetland and cable knits were old school pieces styled on new school explorers, wearable environments rendered healthily fresh by their inhabitants. Phipps is punk Patagonia, good on every level, and perfect attire for the podium, whether you are standing on it to proselytize for positivity or just looking to party.
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